Somehow, even after a 4 ½ Zin rating – back in December of 2003 – the owner at what was then 18 North mistakenly got the idea that I had ripped his restaurant. After I reread my own review of 2003, I noticed only two things that I stated I was unhappy about: the way-overpriced cocktails and the fact that it appeared, at least as of the publishing of the review, that Shawn Brady had departed after a very short time as head chef. The rest of the review showered the place with compliments. Go figure.
Changes For the Better or Worse…
My, how quickly people come and go around here… Management changed (more then once), chefs changed, the menu has been changed, and even the name has now been changed (which, by the way, was one of the goofiest changes imaginable). Emails from inside sources confirmed for me that a bit of turmoil had shaken things up to a great extent at 18 North. Hoping that the dust had now settled – and clutching a $25 Restaurant.com coupon – Lauren and I decided to revisit the place and see if any of the myriad changes had been for the better or worse… or if someone had simply reshuffled the deck.
It was tough finding a parking place, but it was a Friday night… We figured the place was busy. Wrong. From the time we got there – about 6:30pm for a 7:00 reservation (suggested as a good idea by whomever answered the phone when I called) – I counted a total of only 7 other tables. We left at about 8:45pm. So unless a loaded tour bus from Chicago arrived after we left, I would guess that the there were about 34 dinners served that evening.
A Positive Start?
We decided to have a drink in the bar first and ordered a couple of Grey Goose martinis (after all, we had 30 minutes before our reservation). These were now priced at $9.50 instead of the previous $10.25, so I figured that the evening’s start was a somewhat positive one. The manager/maitre’d who was at the door when we arrived had disappeared, so we were seated by the bartender (this subtracted from the positive start). Although there were about twenty empty tables, we were seated at a deuce against the far wall.
I didn’t mind too much… until I watched as another couple was seated at a four-top. Hmmmm… maybe a little training is needed here. Neither Lauren nor I was particularly hungry and had already made a decision to share a couple of appetizers and perhaps a dinner. We ordered Oysters Rockefeller ($8.95) and Spinach Shrimp ($7.95) and asked to share the Halibut Tower ($20.95 – Grilled Halibut stacked with crisp n’ tender polenta cakes and vegetables, finished with a sun-dried tomato beurre-blanc). Lauren ordered a Hawk Chardonnay ($7.00) to have with dinner.
Nothing to Write Home About
The Oysters Rockefeller were definitely some of the best I have had – exquisitely fresh, perfectly done and assisted by a light addition of either nutmeg or anise – and the plus column was in the lead once again. Unfortunately, that didn’t last long. The shrimp were small and overcooked and the spinach was decidedly sad-looking; the dish was such a disappointment after the oysters! But then things seemed to go south in a hurry.
After such a mouth-watering menu description, the Halibut Tower appeared more like a small Lego mound. The Halibut had the taste of “aged” fish; it was overcooked and very unimpressive – especially for the price. The polenta was a disappointment as well and the supposed sun-dried tomato sauce was, well… let’s just say, unimaginative. I had ordered an Iceberg Wedge ($5.95) for a salad, but it was nothing to write home about either. We decided to try a Cherry Strudel ($6.95) for desert. It was smallish, but actually a highlight of the evening.
Taking the First Bite
There were two things that really stood out that evening… and they were not items for the plus column either. Around the time when I was taking the first bite of my diner, the wonderful aroma of the urinal cake from the men’s room came wafting into my olfactory. This was very annoying and I can only hope that my table was and is the only place in the whole dining room where that aroma makes itself known. Because that, in itself, would explain the lack of patrons on a Friday evening.
It was neither temporary nor an anomaly; it lasted for the remainder of our meal. Needless to say, it was very disconcerting. The other item of interest was the appearance of the chef in the dining room. Actually, I should say the chef’s appearance while in the dining room, since chefs often do come out into the dining room. This one was wearing some flowered balloon pants and a pair of sneakers. The outfit certainly did not compliment the rest of the ambience. But it wasn’t just the outfit – a quick trip might have been excusable, especially if was to check on the diners that had come from his kitchen. This guy sat down at a table of eight women and joined their conversation for the next half hour. Unprofessional… period.
Not Memorable
So, for the record and for the owner(s) of 18 Esperienza as well: on my first visit, I lauded praise upon your fine restaurant, its well-trained staff and outstanding food quality. But that was then, and this is now. This time, I am telling you that you have some serious problems that need to be fixed. And I firmly believe that until you get them fixed, your dining room will remain very empty. 18 Esperienza gets only 2 1/2 Zins on this trip for food, service and atmosphere that were all memorable… but not in a good way. And for the time being, I recommend that diners try another Experience.
Your Table is Waiting…
Ralph Pancetta
18 Esperienza was located at 18 N 4th Street in St Charles, IL. The 1841 church building has housed several restaurants and nightclubs over the years. It is currently occupied by Nuova Italia Ristorante.
