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18 North

December 4, 2003

18 north church st charles
18 North in St Charles

For some unknown reason, Tuesdays have become our night of choice to go out for something to eat – whether for a snack or for a full-on dinner. Last Tuesday was no exception, except that I had decided to ‘dial it up a notch’ on this particular Occasion. I say that because I decided that it was about time to pay a visit to one of the Valley’s newer dining venues: 18 North in St. Charles.

What Was Once the Old Church Inn

Neither Lauren nor myself were particularly hungry, but I didn’t need an excuse to grab a cocktail and some appetizers at this place! First of all, I must admit that I am a shamelessly devoted fan of the head chef: Shawn Brady. Lauren and I first encountered Shawn’s talents at the now defunct (but soon to reopen – at least as of this writing) Hotel Baker. (The Hotel Baker has been recently restored.) What I remember was one of the finest lunches that I have ever had. The plate presentations there were absolutely marvelous and the flavors… to die for. After our experience this past week, it is obvious that Chef Brady has not lost his touch. In fact, he may have gotten even better. He and 18 North are what I consider to be a perfect match , and I’m glad that he has hooked up with them.

Upon entering, it was immediately clear that – and to borrow a phrase from the movie Jurassic Park – they “spared no expense” in the redesign and refurbishing of what was once the Old Church Inn and later a disco named Destinations. Everything from the marble bar to the refinished oak floors to the leather-upholstered, cushioned chairs and white tablecloths of the intimate dining area lets you know that you’re going to expect a larger than normal dinner tab. If pricey bothers you, my suggestion would be to save your trip here for a very special occasion. That occasion would definitely be worth the wait.

From a Crab Cakes Appetizer to the Tour of Chocolate Dessert

We started off the evening with a pair of Grey Goose martinis – Lauren’s up and mine on the rocks… with two of the largest bleu cheese-stuffed olives that I believe I have ever seen. The cheese was from Dodgeville, Wisconsin of all places, but some of the best I have had anywhere. We selected two appetizers: Crab Cakes – on the menu at $13.00 – and Chicken Roman (Amish) – a special that evening at $12.00 – sandwiched between polenta or cornbread with sweet peppers and cheese.

These literally melted in our mouths. The crab cakes were at least as good as the ones we had at Hotel Baker. We were sated at that point, but could not resist the “Tour of Chocolate” dessert.  At $8.00, this was the coup-de-menu and a to-die-for must for any chocoholic.  What an excellent finish for a fine evening… of just a cocktail and some appetizers!

We are still determined to go back for dinner and the “full treatment.” Our bill for the evening’s decadence was just over $65, not including tip. The bill included two cocktails and one glass of wine. The wine was very good and not that high-priced. However, the martinis were $10.25 apiece. And I have to say that that price is way out of line for those. I cannot understand the thought process that would lead to charging that price for a cocktail, unless the place wants to insure that only one is ordered.

Open Less Than Three Months

As a footnote to this review, today (only two weeks after our visit) I checked the 18 North website and noticed, to my extreme dismay and sadness, that Shawn Brady is no longer listed as the executive chef. I also noticed that many of the prices have been increased. I truly hope that Shawn is not gone. If he is, it does not bode well for a restaurant that has been open less than three months and has already changed managers at least once.

Based on that particular visit, I would rate the experience as a 4 1/2-Zin evening.  However, if Shawn has left, we’ll need to return to check out the changes.  Stay tuned for updates on this one…

Your Table is Waiting…

Ralph Pancetta

18 North was located at 18 N 4th Street in St Charles, IL. The 1841 church building has housed several restaurants and nightclubs over the years. It is currently occupied by Nuova Italia Ristorante.

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Ralph Pancetta

Food Critic

In my career are twenty-five-plus years learning the restaurant business – from top to bottom – and six years in a Midwest university learning and polishing my writing skills. I have spent a good number of those years (just how many yet to be determined) on the road and authored well over 150 reviews & articles – and still counting.

I’ve traveled from Maine to Florida, from Boston to San Francisco,  from Seattle to San Diego, and from Dallas to way north of Duluth, sampling and writing about food. And Yes, I love restaurants, I love preparing, writing about, and eating, food. I hope you enjoy reading what I have written!

Ralph Pancetta

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