In what may quite likely be my final review of 2010, it is interesting that I find myself back in Geneva. Lauren and I are at a restaurant now called Niche. Located there are twelve “survivors” from former Geneva favorite 302 West.
Greener Pastures
They came to roost at Niche after fleeing their former place of employment – 302 West – when it was hijacked in early 2006. The hijacker? Restaurateur Jim Ginger, who enjoyed a short-lived failure at 302 (he has had several…) when he changed the name to a place called Tuscana – Incredibly Italian. At this point, I am unsure of how many of the dozen are still at Niche. In the 1960s it was the location of perhaps one of the most significant supper clubs the area has perhaps known: Twin Door – although our waiter was a 302 West alum who could always be counted on for outstanding service.
I do know that Chef Jeremy Lycan has left for greener pastures, literally. Lycan has taken a position with Heritage Prairie Farm in La Fox as executive chef there. It seemed an odd switch, and one not really in line with his talents or career (hired by 302’s Chef Joel Findlay. Lycan eventually took Findlay’s place after his untimely passing). Lycan’s watch at Niche has been taken by Serena Perdue, a Geneva native with some pretty impressive credentials of her own.
Something Was Not Quite Right
I had refrained from dining here for the the better part of almost five years for reasons no longer of any importance. I do know that my expectations were quite high, based on awards the restaurant had achieved and the twelve 302 West employees, including Chef Lycan who I thought were still there. At the time, I was unaware that Chef Lycan had already departed. However, given the credentials of the chef who replaced him, there shouldn’t have been any noticeable difference. I was calmed by the familiar face of our waiter as he approached our table.
Apparently, I had prepared myself improperly. Although I can’t quite put my finger on it – I wish I could – something was not quite right. That something was akin to a new Mercedes Benz with an annoying little rattle under the dash. The ambience was warm, albeit almost austere, the lighting was brighter than I would have liked, and the chairs were not altogether comfortable. Perhaps I was remembering stories my friend Richard had shared with me of the Twin Door and its dark, quiet and intimate setting. I didn’t pay much attention at the time. I was only concerned about whether the service was top notch and whether the food was as superb as I had anticipated.
That Annoying Rattle
All the accoutrements were in place and everything seemed, as mission control would have put it, a “go for throttle-up“. The annoying rattle found its way back into the cockpit. It started with an $11 Grey Goose on the rocks and a $12 glass of Lenore Syrah (a Columbia Valley, Washington state wine that retails for less than $15 per bottle for the 2007 vintage). The rattle then got louder with the delivery of a single – small (as in bite-size: an amuse-bouche) – $9 Crab Cake.
It didn’t help to notice that there were only two other tables occupied, one of which was obviously just drinking and the other ready to leave, as they had finished their meal. It was barely 7:00 pm. We also had Duck Nachos ($10) and a fish entree called Barramundi. Also known as Asian Seabass (very popular in Thai cuisine), it is also popular for its white flesh, good taste and flaky texture. At $29 for the portion, it was, however, not overly large…
Everything Tasted Incredibly Good
The first thing that I must say is that the flavors of everything we tasted were incredibly good! The plating, although not eye-popping, was very nicely done. Beyond that, the rattle has never really gone away. The prices were definitely Mercedes, and so was the service. As has always been the case with this particular waiter, the service was pretty much flawless. Beyond that, I am unsure as to the condition of the patient. Perhaps the new chef was just getting the feel for a new menu, or perhaps just starting to find her niche (pardon the pun). The prices however, definitely did not match the experience, not by any stretch, especially when compared to like-caliber venues. Like I said, something was not quite right – ah, yes – the rattle. I’d like to give it another chance. But for now, I give Niche Three-and-a-Half Zins.
Your Table is Waiting…
Ralph Pancetta
Niche Restaurant is located at 14 S. 3rd Street in Geneva, Illinois.
