When it comes to shopping, for anything in any season, there are few better or more authentic venues. The Little Traveler has been a proud part of Geneva’s history and has served well, countless generations of patrons.
Brunch in the Storied Atrium Café
The Traveler has been – and will always continue to be – an icon. Its vaunted status however, took a bit of a hit yesterday when my wife and I decided, based on a friend’s suggestion, to visit the Little Traveler for a Sunday Brunch in the storied Atrium Café.
The Traveler website showed a well-described list of menu selections that included Traditional Fare (e.g., eggs, quiche, oatmeal), “Sweet-Side” items (like waffles, French Toast, etc.), A La Carte items and an All-Inclusive Brunch. The brunch “includes a freshly baked, cream cheese-iced cinnamon roll, two pieces of thickly-sliced Applewood smoked bacon, seasoned, oved-roasted country potatoes, and coffee or tea.” The all-inclusive meals could be had for a mere $8.95. This seemed like a great meal and a great value – that included several iterations of Eggs Benedict.
Eggs Benedict of Any Variety is Not at All Simple
It is extremely important to point out that, although a seemingly simple dish to make, Eggs Benedict of any variety is not at all simple to accomplish. There are many reasons for this, not the least of which is the timing issue necessary to get them perfect, and have them still be perfect (or very close to it) when they reach the table. The delicate Hollandaise sauce is a whole different beast. Benedict is a dish though, that all restaurant kitchens should be able to easily undertake.
Lauren and I both decided to try Eggs Benedict. I selected the “Classic” version on the menu (with country ham substituting for the usual Canadian bacon) and Lauren ordered the “Gardener’s” version (with tomato, avocado, mushrooms and peppers). We also ordered a glass of house Chardonnay apiece (we were celebrating an anniversary).
Overcooked Eggs, Barely Warm Breakfast, and…
Aside from the very reasonable price, a quaint and nicely decorated room and crisp bacon, there wasn’t much to rave about. Most importantly, the eggs were cooked to within an inch of being hard-boiled. There was no run to the yolk, indicating eggs that were over-poached far in advance and “held” until an order came in for them. Breakfast was not at all hot, nor were the plates. The Hollandaise sauce was creamy but had little flavor. The potatoes were simply French fries that were cut up – far from the described “seasoned oven-roasted country potatoes.” The wine, by the way, while a great price ($5 per glass), was simply not good at all.
When I said to our waiter – twice – “I’d like the Classic Eggs Benedict”, he reacted like he didn’t understand me. I ended up pointing to the menu and stating: “this one”. After delivering the barely-warm breakfasts, he waited for us to have taken approximately one bite before stopping at the table to ask if everything was OK. We had hardly gotten the words “OK” out of our mouths when he said “OK” and literally threw the check on the table… prices/total side up.
Best Brunch – Really?
Interestingly, printed in large, pink font at the top of the web page and just above a photo of Eggs Benedict (with a different sort of potatoes) are these words: “Named Best Brunch in the 2015 Kane County Chronicle Best of the Fox awards.”
Perhaps we just came for brunch on a bad day, but our experience at the Atrium Café was anything but a Best Brunch – it was terribly disappointing. As great an overall venue that it is supposed to be, it is unfortunately a pretty good bet that we won’t be giving the Little Traveler a second chance on their food. The best I can do is offer Little Traveler 2 Zins for a very disappointing brunch.
Your Table is Waiting…
Ralph Pancetta
The Atrium Cafe is located inside the Little Traveler at 404 S. Third St in Geneva, Illinois
Lauren’s Links
- OntheFox.com – Shopping, Dining in Batavia, Geneva and St. Charles
