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Birch River Grill

November 20, 2006

What’s in a name? What comes to mind when you hear the words “Birch River Grill – An American Kitchen”? Well, what should come to mind is a cozy restaurant with perhaps the relaxing and comfortable feel of a Northwoods lodge.

A Long List of Interesting and Impressive Credits

This particular lodge would also be one that serves some of the most incredibly delicious food this side of the Milky Way. At the helm? A fairly young executive chef by the name of Daniel Sikorski. Daniel can boast of a long list of interesting and impressive credits. A quote from his Bio states:

“Our goal here is to prepare American food that people really like. Our goal is quality and variety. If we can truly surprise and thrill people with how good familiar dishes can taste when done exceptionally well, then we will have fulfilled our mission.”

Passion and Food From the Heart

fireplace in lounge

A brief conversation with Sikorski will quickly alert one to his passion for his trade and his desire to work hard to create a truly remarkable offering for dinner guests. He truly likes what he does. Says Sikorski: “My food comes from the heart.” The hint of a smile that comes to his face when he talks about his creations is evidence of his zeal. But don’t just take my word for it. You really need to visit Birch River Grill to see and experience what I am talking about.

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The restaurant is part of the newly remodeled Doubletree Hotel in Arlington Heights – a venue that is close at hand no matter from which direction you come. The atmosphere is somehow austere and yet very warm and comfortable at the same time. A huge stone fireplace blazes in the cocktail area just behind the host/hostess station. A large mounted deer head graces the stones above the mantle and a “grove” of birch trees separates the lounge from the dining area. The tables themselves are wood-grained and the seating is extremely comfortable – tables are spaced well and there is no crowded feeling.

Comfort Food Dialed Up a Notch

Lauren and I arrived for dinner recently on an evening shortly after Birch River Grill rolled out a new menu – and what an incredible menu it is. A quick glance through it will start the salivary glands dancing with joy at such items that some might be tempted to call comfort food… But if this is comfort food, then comfort has just been dialed up several notches! For starters, try the Boursin Stuffed Mushrooms with horseradish dipping sauce, the Flash Fried Tabasco Calamari with cool ranch sauce and banana pepper relish or the Sizzlin’ Campfire Mussels with charred tomato shallot citrus butter and grilled garlic bread.

smelt appetizer
Crispy Great Lakes Smelt appetizer at Birch River Grill

Appetizer Selections

Lauren spotted the Hickory Bacon Wrapped Scallops with Kentucky BBQ sauce – scallops are one of her fav’s. I was drawn quickly to the Crispy Great Lakes Smelt (How many times have you seen that appetizer on a menu?!) with duck fat fries and wild berry ketchup. Those items represent roughly half of an amazing starting lineup of Soups and Starters that should contain something for everyone. By the way, the three huge scallops that graced the plate literally melted in Lauren’s mouth and the BBQ sauce was, although seemingly unusual, an excellent accompaniment. Smelt is an item not normally seen on any menu, and I couldn’t pass on them… These were lightly breaded and flash-fried, served falling from a paper cornucopia onto the plate. The “ketchup” was made from wild blackberries that added a wonderful flavor to some tasty treats from the Great Lakes.

Cedar Planked Salmon with garlic maple glaze

Entrees at Birch River Grill

The entrée side of the menu was no less inviting, featuring typical fall favorites like Smokehouse Baby Back Ribs with root beer baked beans, applejack coleslaw and skillet roasted cornbread. There was also an Apple Cured Double-Cut Pork Chop with white cheddar hominy grits, watercress salad, baked lady apples and sage jus — WOW!  and, I spied Yankee Pot Roast with braised carrot, celery, onion, Yukon gold potatoes and red wine sauce.  These were just a few of the fifteen delightfully described and mouth-watering entrees… Every one of them seemed to say “come on… order me!” Lauren Chose the Cedar Planked Salmon with garlic maple glaze, Nueske bacon and wild rice pilaf, while I zeroed in on the Autumn Squash Ravioli with Wild Pheasant. This gem was served with fontina cheese, porcini mushrooms, sweet peas, pumpkinseed pesto and sweet corn broth. My taste buds shifted to overload!

ravioli and pheasant entree
Autumn Squash Ravioli with Wild Pheasant

I could go into infinite detail about the components of each dish. Importantly, the plating was simple but elegant, the food hot, and the flavors remained separate and marvelous. The maple glaze on the salmon set the seafood apart from any I have tasted. The large filet rested atop a charred cedar plank, topped by a rosemary stem, the rice just a step below the plank accompanied by fresh green broccoli crowns and petit, bright orange carrots.

The wild rice? Well, I don’t know if it was the Nueske bacon or perhaps just the way the rice was prepared.. or the combo of those things. But as far as I know, no one in any restaurant has served rice this good and this flavorful. My pheasant – it came as a sliced breast – was nestled in the center of the square plate, check-mated by squash-filled rooks of ravioli around the border, the plate splashed lovingly with the sweet corn broth. I savored every tender morsel.

Don’t Skip Dessert

rhubarb tartThe dessert menu – created by Executive Pastry Chef Kate Milashus – was no simple walk in the park either. Inspired originally by her grandmother who made everything from scratch, Ms. Milashus has a passion for pastries and patisserie arts. On her dessert menu at Birch River Grill are the choc-o-holic attractions of Black Bottom Crème Brulée with mini chocolate chunk cookies and Chocolate Soufflé Cake. These were served with fresh mint ice cream to tempt the palate, as well as other fine and delectable sweets.

Lauren and I were ready to eschew dessert for looser fitting attire, but we decided to split a Rhubarb Tart topped with an exotic ginger ice cream… YUM times three! Although the rhubarb was a tad on the woody side, overall the dessert was excellent and a fine finish to an excellent meal.

I was surprised at the lack of diners that evening. Birch River Grill – An American Kitchen is one venue that definitely should not be overlooked. It is not your ordinary hotel restaurant catering only to hotel guests. You would certainly do well to put Birch River Grill at the very top of your “places that we absolutely have to try” list. The prices are very reasonable and the food is outstanding. The service? Absolutely top notch! I give Birch River Grill Four-and-a-Half Zins.

Your Table is Waiting…

Ralph Pancetta

Birch River Grill is located at
75 W Algonquin Rd
Arlington Heights, IL
(847) 427-4242

Addendum

Unfortunately, Daniel Sikorski departed BRG sometime in the Spring of 2007, wanting to expand his career and search for ever-greener pastures. Replacing Sikorski is John Ayaleanos. A veteran chef, Ayaleanos brings with him a strong resume, having worked previous stints at a number of fine-dining venues and clubs. The chef is slowly adding his own touches to an already impressive menu, following his passion for freshness and quality of product.

Lauren and I decided to taste a few of the Chef’s specialties and headed back to BRG in July of 2007 for just that purpose. Rest assured, the quality is still there, and if you haven’t been to Birch River Grill in awhile — or yet — perhaps you should give making the trip some serious consideration. Our evening consisted of Boursin-stuffed Mushrooms, Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Yukon mashed potatoes, green beans, rustic cranberry-apple sauce and Campfire Roasted Brook Trout with peppered bacon potato hash and sautéed garlic spinach. A great fall dinner!

 

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Ralph Pancetta

Food Critic

In my career are twenty-five-plus years learning the restaurant business – from top to bottom – and six years in a Midwest university learning and polishing my writing skills. I have spent a good number of those years (just how many yet to be determined) on the road and authored well over 150 reviews & articles – and still counting.

I’ve traveled from Maine to Florida, from Boston to San Francisco,  from Seattle to San Diego, and from Dallas to way north of Duluth, sampling and writing about food. And Yes, I love restaurants, I love preparing, writing about, and eating, food. I hope you enjoy reading what I have written!

Ralph Pancetta

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