Soft openings are a great way for new restaurants to get up and going. A wide cross-section of the dining public can be invited, management and staff can get a good idea of what menu items will be ordered, and at the same time have a chance to find out where the “bugs” are. Pretty much everything can be fine-tuned prior to opening the doors to the general public. Having been to a number of these, I had a fairly good idea of what to expect. Or so I thought…From the moment we first drove up to Bakersfield, I had a sense that this time was going to be different.
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City There of the Same Name
How much different, I hadn’t a clue. But the low-slung footprint, austere and gleaming in the early afternoon light (even though it was a cloudy, cold day) seemed reminiscent of structures on the left coast with which I am familiar.
Bricks, glass – lots of it – wooden beams and floors, and shiny steel. I liked the feel. Bakersfield was both austere and warm at the same time. As it turned out, the owners, I was told, were originally from California and the restaurant’s name came from the city there of the same name…
Able to Easily Seat a Hundred Diners
Big glass doors framed the front entrance through which we passed to enter the restaurant, but not before we were treated to views of the patio on the side facing Ogden Ave. It was huge by most standards, with a gigantic fireplace at the far end, and another fire pit near the other end. Umbrellas large enough to easily cover six-eight diners were equipped with radiant heaters that would keep outdoor patrons warm on days in both March and October.
This was something I have on numerous occasions mentioned as being curiously absent from many venues in the Fox Valley portion of the western suburbs of Illinois. (“and I don’t know why!” is what I hear I hear Robin Leach screaming in my head). The patio looked to be able to easily seat a hundred additional diners.
It Was Obvious
Inside, we were met by four smiling hostesses, checking the names of invited guests. Instead of being seated right away – we were a bit early – we asked if we might enjoy a cocktail at the bar. (As it turned out, we would remain there, as the lighting was excellent for the pictures we would take). No expense was spared in designing/constructing the bar itself. Six inches or so of solid black stone-like material (Corian, perhaps?) formed a giant U-shaped area that faced the patio. I estimated the bar was able to accommodate as many as twenty-five or so patrons, although there were only about eighteen very cushy seats – very comfortably spaced. In fact, my sense was that Bakersfield was all about comfort, and it was obvious in every seating area in the place.
The Bakersfield of My Home State
What is comfort though, without the added luxury of great food that should share the space? Have no fear when you dine at Bakersfield, although these two boys – great food and comfort – need a pretty big tent in which to reside… The food (and we tasted a significant cross-section) is nothing short of, as a Valley Girl might say it, totally awesome! Sorry ’bout that, I couldn’t help it. It is, however, very true. It has been quite some time since I have sampled the likes of which are produced at the Bakersfield of my home state!
We started with some cocktails (more on those later…) and followed with appetizers and an entrée. In short, everything on the menu is… well.. different. At least different from “ce qui est normalement trouvé dans le menu” around here. (sorry again – that’s a loose translation from Google for “what is normally found on the menu“). And it is different in a very good way!
From the Appetizer List
The first item was from the appetizer list: the No. 1 Tuna Poké, an incredible blend of sushi-grade Ahi tuna, pieces of cooked shrimp, perfectly ripe avocado and mango, tossed with a light sauce and sprinkled with black sesame seeds. From the Crispy Rice Sushi section, we also sampled Seared Beef & Goat Cheese. It was like a cross between carpaccio and sushi, with the tender morsels of thinly-sliced beef nestled atop tart goat cheese, all residing on crispy sushi rice. Not sure what else was flavoring that one, but it was incredibly good (sushi rice and goat cheese and rare beef, oh my!).
We also tried the Four Farmers Salad: sliced, grilled chicken, masterfully blended with a bright and creamy goat cheese, fresh avocado, candied hazelnuts and champagne vinaigrette. And although it was not listed, the salad contained pieces of sweet dates that really set the whole thing off.. in a very nice way. Again – different, but refreshingly so.
The Trout was… Indescribable
Entrée choices were difficult, as the menu had a Barrel-Cut Fillet that was calling my name, as was the Grilled Salmon, a Double-Cut Pork Chop and several other items. But when the bartender informed me of a special Grilled Idaho Trout (did I mention that items are grilled on a wood fire?), I was hooked (pardon the pun). Lauren zeroed in on The Bello Sandwich: grilled Portabella mushroom, arugula, roasted red pepper, Cheddar, Jack and roasted garlic dressing. Oh Boy was that good! But the trout – along with its heirloom tomatoes and bleu cheese crumbles – was… indescribable, except to say that the flavor far exceeded that of the fresh trout served at the Wagon Wheel restaurant in Carmel Valley, CA.
Exceptional Desserts
We were told that we simply must sample the Fried Oreos: battered and deep-fried Oreo cookies. Made with a batter very similar to a New Orleans Beignet that I tried many years ago..), the dessert was surrounding a mock-up of an Oreo cookie that consisted of Jeni’s The Buckeye State ice cream, and topped with crumbled Oreos and some drizzled vanilla custard and chocolate sauce. Eye candy for sure, but the flavor? Oh, Boy… a second time!
Out of the Ordinary Cocktails
I said that I would mention the cocktails, and I always make good on my word. So I will mention them… But I will only say that you really need to try them to believe them. As you know, I am more a fan of Grey Goose vodka on the rocks than I am of “pretend martinis”. But these were quite out of the ordinary.
The flavors were subtle and not (as I might have thought) sweet. The ingredients – as with everything else – different in a very pleasant and pleasing way. I can easily vouch for The Pamplemousse, The Midtown, The Red Carpet and The Bang Up, all of which offer a refreshing and extremely unique twist on cocktails. I would say exceptional.
A Good Feeling About This One
In fact, I would say that the entire experience was quite exceptional. And I would recommend that you check the Bakersfield Menu, and then make a definite plan to dine at Bakersfield. I know, I know… The restaurant will only officially open – for the first day – on May 1st. And the true test will happen: “all in good time, my pretty.” But I have a really good feeling about this one. And I wish them much success and many happy years of it.
A perfect ambience, professionally-attired wait and management staff, reasonable prices… I would likely have given them Five Zins, but we didn’t sit at a table and I can’t judge service without having experienced it (although the bartenders were quite attentive and the service at the bar was excellent). I think I can let you know more later, as I do plan to return. There are too many items I have not yet tried… So, for now… 4 1/2 Zins it is!
Your table is waiting…
Ralph Pancetta
The Bakersfield location that we dined at was located at 330 East Ogden Avenue in Westmont, Illinois. This location is now closed but they still have other locations open in Ohio, North Carolina, Michigan, Indiana, Tennessee and Pennsylvania.
