It has always been an odd sensation for me to walk in to a building that has previously housed another restaurant — let alone three or four other restaurants. For instance, take Bistro One West… Recent events have been a painful reminder that nothing lasts forever.
Excellent Location for a Restaurant
So, I suppose it should come as no great surprise to me that a specific restaurant has gone the way of a Cubs trip to the World Series. A particular St. Charles address that was once home to a marvelous old piano factory is, I think, an excellent location for a restaurant. Frankly, I am rather baffled that the previous occupants did not last very long, although I have my suspicions. After a rather protracted vacancy, a new owner has brought to that historic and cozy site a venue that I hope will occupy the premises for many a year to come.
Both owner and chef bring with them to Bistro One West more than five decades of experience: thirty-plus years from Owner George Guggeis, who has seen successful stints at the popular Chicago restaurants Mango, Grapes and Rhapsody, and and also managing the venerable Trattoria No. 10 in that downtown. Add another twenty-plus from his Executive Chef Doug D’Avico, who trained at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, and has worked in restaurants from New York to Chicago (where he first met Guggeis), to Hawaii and back again. “My cooking philosophy is simplicity and quality,” says D’Avico, who uses high quality ingredients and locally sourced products at Bistro One West. “I let the products speak for themselves, and let the ingredients say what they need to say.”
Guggeis Has Set the Bar
Bistro One West opened with little fanfare in mid-December and, after giving them less than the requisite amount of time that I have always felt is necessary to “work out the bugs”, my curiosity got the best of me. Lauren and I ventured out recently on a snowy and cold January night to sample what Bistro One West had to offer; we were glad we did!
The restaurant had obviously undergone some extensive cleaning after its last tenants. New lighting and pictures on the walls gave it a feel of warmth. Of course it doesn’t hurt to have the beautiful and ancient bricks on the outer walls, along with giant wooden beams that span the ceiling, all creating a soothing ambience of their own. White cloths topped with fresh white butcher paper and gleaming, polished silverware rounded out the table setting, while wait-staff in dark pants, black shirts and white aprons sent the message that Guggeis has set the bar for service several notches above his local competitors
The Thing That Most Impressed Me Was the Service
Perhaps the thing that most impressed me was the service, which may seem odd, coming from someone who is normally so focused on food. But, truth of the matter is, much like my close friend over at Northern Sky Designs — and we both learned much of what we know from one of the very best — I am quite often more mindful of how I am taken care of when I am dining out. I had once thought, with the passing of Joel Findlay and the debacle that resulted after the demise of 302 West in Geneva, that I might never again see quite the level of service I had experienced there…
The visit to Bistro One West proved that kind of service is still possible. The seemingly small matter of clean silver between courses is the attention to detail that few even think of; it’s a very nice touch that puts an impressive exclamation point on the experience.
Menu Might Appear as an Eclectic Gathering… Don’t Let it Fool You
Simple, almost austere plating on bright white china provided the backdrop for Chef D’Avico’s presentations. My guess is that he is still “playing” a bit with a cuisine type referred to as Fresh American that relies on the freshest ingredients from local suppliers. This will be the case until he zeros in on the perfect menu items that will combine his talents and ideas gleaned from previous venues. In the meantime, although the menu might appear as an eclectic gathering, don’t let it fool you.
First off — and perhaps most importantly — dinners here are truly made to order. And I can attest to the fact that is not an easy task. In fact, I believe it to be an art-form, and not something that just anyone who puts on an apron and works in a kitchen can do. It takes time, timing and an intricate pas de deux in the kitchen in order to craft an entrée that will arrive at your table steaming hot, looking like a painting and tasting like something for which you would come back… over and over again. But the freshest ingredients prepared on-demand will make all the difference in the world. A sampling of the flavors at Bistro One West will tell you that D’Avico is definitely on the right track.
A Hint of the Chef’s Previous Sortie Into Italian Fare
For starters, just take a look at these appetizers: Ancient Sweet Pepper with Dunbarton bleu cheese and Applewood smoked bacon (tangy and sweet, an excellent starter); Jumbo Prawns with Garlic, Chili Threads, Shallots , Grilled Ciabatta (I highly recommend the prawns); Deviled Eggs filled with succulent Maine Lobster (now there’s one for the books — strange-sounding, but great tasting!).
And for a main course, the Papardelle with Berkshire Pork, Tomatoes, Pecorino Romano — which may represent a hint of the Chef’s previous sortie into Italian fare — with just a hint of heat, is a great winter delight. There is also a tender and very flavorful Grilled Waygu Ribeye residing in a bold but highly accommodating made-from-scratch Madeira sauce, topped with a trio of bright green asparagus spears and finished with a plethora of crispy parsnip strips.
Or how about this restaurant’s up-scale entry in the Friday Night Fish Fry category: fresh-from Wisconsin, Pan-fried Trout with shitake, green onion butter sauce, mushrooms and radicchio coleslaw? It was a replacement for the Lake Superior Walleye that we had wanted to try, but we were certainly not disappointed by any means. Or perhaps your winter taste buds need to get themselves around the Herb-Roasted Amish Chicken, Roasted Carrots, Lemon, Cinnamon, Pearl Onions. It helps to be a fan of cinnamon, but the chicken is wonderfully flavorful and melt-in-your-mouth tender.
Desserts and Bottom Line
Desserts are a set of sweets that are definitely decadent delights. Try the caramelized Roasted Banana with Baked Cinnamon Wonton and Nutella Cream; the flavors are an amazing combination that might not seem to work on first blush. Trust me — they do! The Molten Chocolate Cake is oozing with chocolate — as it is supposed to be — and is a chocoholic’s delight, while the icy Vanilla Sorbet with Balsamic Strawberries will send a wakeup call to any still-snoozing taste buds. And don’t forget to check out the French Butter Cookies — awesome!
Bottom line? Superior service, fantastic fare, excellent ambiance, very reasonably-priced menu. And just wait until the “warm season” when you are able to enjoy the outdoor deck along the scenic Fox River… The particular winter evening of our visit was actually quite slow (read: very few patrons). Normally that would not be a good sign. But in this case, a slow start is a good thing; it will give everyone at Bistro One West adequate time to prepare for what will be coming in the ensuing months. An easy Four-plus-Zin experience. My advice? Go now (be mindful of the fact that the restaurant is closed Sunday and Monday) and beat what I think will be a massive influx of diners who know a good thing when they taste it…
Your table is waiting…
Ralph
Bistro One West was located at 1 Illinois St in St Charles, IL. The restaurant closed its doors permanently in 2012. This space is now occupied by Maple Leaf Coffee House.
Lauren’s Links
- St. Charles’ Bistro One West closes by Eric Schelkopf, November 1, 2012, Shaw Local New Network
