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Montarra Grill

October 5, 2007

montarra exterior
Montarra in Algonquin, Illinois

Including the one at Route 38 and Randall Road — where our journey began — we counted 35 traffic control signals (at least as of this writing), in a distance of approximately 25 miles — along with much windshield time — between there and Montarra Grill in Algonquin. That city is yet another gleaming example of what is taking place in the construction of strip malls lately. It should be obvious that Randall Road and its environs is expanding at a rate approximately equal to that of the known universe.

Words like high-end, chic, upscale, and sophisticated, are just a sampling of the many applicable descriptors of this fine-dining venue. Lauren had discovered the place on one of her many forays into the world of the Internet and, after a brief discussion, it was decided that we definitely wanted to have dinner there. It was also convenient to be able to take advantage of the ability to use Open Table to make our reservations.

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Complete with a Waterfall Wall

Although the host was not, the interior of the restaurant was definitely inviting. Interestingly but almost austerely decorated with a black-and-neutral theme, the Montarra Grill came complete with a waterfall wall and an impressive cobalt chandelier that hung Medusa-like — and quite prominently — from the ceiling in the central dining area. A separate bar was set away from the dining area, although some smoke still filtered through to the dining area.

The tables were mostly deuces. We were led to one of them and seated, after which the host half-heartedly droned “Enjoy your dinner”. I noticed that only every other one of the bare-topped tables had a flower on them; ours did not. This was actually fortunate, since another couple was soon seated next to us, and the tall but poorly-weighted flower vase with all of its water was quickly tipped over onto the gentleman next to me. How it happened matters not… That would normally have been me, and I suddenly did not miss a fresh rose on our table.

Mouthwatering Descriptions

One of the very first things I noticed was that the noise level was quite high and the dining room was barely at 50% capacity at that point. The distance between Lauren and me was enough to enhance the noise and conversation became even more difficult with time. The menu was a large one: seasonal American cuisine paired with steakhouse offerings of hand-cut, corn fed, wet-aged prime beef… with an additional choice of signature crusts and sauces. (One can even order the “Creamy Mac ‘n’ Cheese” add-on for a mere $5… REALLY?)

The Chef — or a very experienced menu writer — did one heck-of-a job on the entrée descriptions; they were well-written, mouth-watering and exciting to say the least! For those who could survive past the dinner, the dessert menu was just as mind-boggling: tiramisu, Godiva white chocolate crème brulee and flourless chocolate torte: sufficient to appease the chocoholic in any of you.

We Were Overwhelmed

We were overwhelmed at first and chose to sip a cocktail and order an appetizer as we relaxed. Our server was pleasant and smiling and certainly allowed us the time that we had requested. We ordered the Semolina-Crusted, Buttermilk Calamari (fried, with remoulade, tomato coulis and cracked pepper: $9) and the Bacon-Wrapped, Diver-Caught Scallops (vanilla bean-maple-pecan compound butter: $11). Flavors were quite good; the calamari was tender and fried to a not-overdone state, and the scallops were tender and flavorful as well — the bacon complimenting but not overpowering the two large morsels. The sauces were a tad disappointing; I could taste neither the vanilla nor maple in the butter and the remoulade was bland.

At this point, the noise had reached an uncomfortable level and I had begun to wonder just what the architects were thinking when they considered acoustics for the building. While perhaps this is the new wave in restaurant design… I prefer the ability to carry on a conversation without yelling to others at the table. Besides, we were seated on opposite ends of the long sides of the rectangular table, and the separation distance made matters worse. We discussed the options and decided that our evening would end on a better note if we simply cut bait. We asked for the check and quickly checked out.

The Service

As I look back on the evening, I can easily say that the food was not exceptional, but it was very good. The bare table tops were not my idea of a fine-dining experience when one considers the prices. Not outrageous but a tad on the high side when one considers the rather mundane plate presentations. Steaks were in the $30 and up range without additional toppings and / or crusts. Entrées were in the $19-$22 range; dinner for two can easily top $100 (although this in not why we departed). The service was very good and it was nice to see uniformed wait-staff and bus-people. The Montarra website is elegant and simple and it was the menu that really caught my eye and made me want to have dinner there — there were no pictures offered on the site. The drink prices were reasonable too.

Although I was surprised at the relative lack of any dress code — one man was attired in shorts and a baseball cap — it was the noise that was simply intolerable. I knew that it would only get worse had we chosen to stay. If the cacophony that exists in so many places in today’s world doesn’t bother you, Montarra just might make the perfect venue in the growing suburban sprawl of Algonquin. The seventy-stop-light round trip drive and high noise level didn’t help matters and the ensuing evening was unfortunately a disappointment. I give Montarra Grill Three-and-a-Half Zins.

Your Table is Waiting…

Ralph

Contact Information for Montarra

Montarra

1491 South Randall Road, Algonquin, IL

 

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Ralph Pancetta

Food Critic

In my career are twenty-five-plus years learning the restaurant business – from top to bottom – and six years in a Midwest university learning and polishing my writing skills. I have spent a good number of those years (just how many yet to be determined) on the road and authored well over 150 reviews & articles – and still counting.

I’ve traveled from Maine to Florida, from Boston to San Francisco,  from Seattle to San Diego, and from Dallas to way north of Duluth, sampling and writing about food. And Yes, I love restaurants, I love preparing, writing about, and eating, food. I hope you enjoy reading what I have written!

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