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The Decline of Table Etiquette

December 18, 2024

white candles on round table
Photo by Libby Penner on Unsplash

As a kid growing up “back in the day,” or what some now consider as the distant past, the rules at our house – at least for the dinner table – were well understood by those who sat at my father’s table. There were of course the obligatory “no-elbows-on-the-table” and no “lip-smacking” and no “horse-play” kinds of rules. But I’m talking dinner / dining etiquette.

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Practiced at Every Meal

people sitting on dining chair in front of table
Photo by Annie Spratt on Unsplash

Mealtime was something of a special togetherness kind of time. And etiquette was something that was not only taught and modeled, but also practiced at every meal. The occasion made no difference – be it lunch, Sunday dinner or Christmas Eve. You best know the rules to be followed at the table, ‘cause if they were violated, there was a good chance that you could go to bed hungry… at the very least.

When I went to college and joined a fraternity, I was dumfounded when the housemother demanded that all freshmen partake of the table manners and etiquette sessions that she “offered” on Saturday afternoons. I thought that everyone already knew these things! At least there were a few others who knew of these things; they weren’t just the whims of my parents.

One Rule I Did Not Question

That Bogart look (B&W)” by Neil. Moralee is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

My father grew up in a time when all men wore hats. There were fedoras, top hats, straw hats, and derby hats – hats of all sorts. But there was one little piece of etiquette that was strictly followed: when a man – a gentleman – entered a building, the hat was removed. His age made no difference. This was one rule that I absolutely did not question. And if I had even thought of wearing a hat at the dinner table… well, it was something that I just never would have considered. That was very bad manners!

At the time, it was mainly due to the severity of the consequences I could expect. Now, I understand that it was a matter of manners, courtesy and, above all else, self-respect. When I was involved in sports, my father used to tell me that “you’ll play the game on the weekend in the same way that you practice during the week.” I now realize that phrase has meaning in many more applications…

Hats Inside a Building

As a young man, many years ago, I worked in a very fine restaurant in southern California. – one with white table clothes, silver and crystal and the like. It was an incredible experience, one where I first met my restaurant hero, Head Chef Joseph Insalago. However, for the first time since I was out of college, I actually witnessed what I had considered to be the unthinkable. Not only were people coming into a formal, fine dining restaurant with what I had always considered to be informal attire, hats were being worn – gasp – inside the building.

I was told by the restaurant manager that since this was an area near the beach and marina, it was in fact acceptable. I guess I accepted it… as just something California. Moving to the Midwest, I felt as if I had returned to some sort of normalcy. Things were pretty much as they had had been during my youth and collegiate years. The world really hadn’t lost their collective self-esteem, pride and common sense at the dinner table while I was gone, or at least so it seemed. But the problem has worsened.

Coup-des-Grâce for Etiquette

In the last six or seven years, however, I feel that I have witnessed the beginning of the fall of the civilized western world. It started with… well, I’m not really sure where or when it all started. What I do know is that it’s not just an occasionally-defiant teen-ager wearing butt-sagging jeans into his favorite burger joint with his underwear showing, .

a man sitting at a table with a plate of food
Photo by Sasha Matveeva on Unsplash

Restaurant etiquette, and dining manners in general, by folks of almost all ages – have taken a nose-dive. It seems that no matter where I go, I am confronted by torn and revealing clothes, poor table manners, screaming children throwing food onto the floor, egregious personal hygiene, rude and obnoxious behavior, cell phones ringing incessantly and, the coup-des-grâce for etiquette and manners that have been failing for years: Everywhere I go and in every restaurant, I see the wearing of hats (mostly of the baseball cap variety) being worn not only indoors, but at the dinner table! Where are your manners, your self esteem, your pride? Gone.. like the evanescent shadow of a hummingbird in flight.

My father would roll over in his grave, so it’s probably a good thing that he can’t see it. No one appears to be bothered by all of this, and the only place that I see the sign “No Shoes, No Shirt, No Service” is on the door of the all-night convenient stores. Go figure. I, for one, am appalled.

Display Some Basic Table Manners

Maybe families no longer give lessons to their children in table manners. Maybe parents just want to be their children’s friends and be “hip” instead of teaching them proper manners and etiquette or handing out appropriate discipline. Perhaps – as my father used to frequently say – “the world is going to hell in a hand basket.” At least it seems that way to me. Maybe I am just old-fashioned, but I do have pride, self respect, and practice good manners.

Do what you wish to do in the privacy of your own home, but when it comes to going out in public, especially for dinner; at least try to pretend that you live in the “civilized” western world. And then try to display some basic table manners. By the way, there is something else my father used to say: “If you can’t act or play the part, at least look the part.” So please, at the very least, remove your hat at the dinner table. At least you will look the part!

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Ralph Pancetta

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Ralph Pancetta

Food Critic

In my career are twenty-five-plus years learning the restaurant business – from top to bottom – and six years in a Midwest university learning and polishing my writing skills. I have spent a good number of those years (just how many yet to be determined) on the road and authored well over 150 reviews & articles – and still counting.

I’ve traveled from Maine to Florida, from Boston to San Francisco,  from Seattle to San Diego, and from Dallas to way north of Duluth, sampling and writing about food. And Yes, I love restaurants, I love preparing, writing about, and eating, food. I hope you enjoy reading what I have written!

Ralph Pancetta

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