If you live in the western suburbs, Evanston is almost one of those “you-can’t-get-there from-here” kind of places; a journey to it takes awhile… Our trip there for a special dinner last night reminded me of a long-ago sojourn to Florida from Indiana: “A Rainy Night in Georgia” played on the radio at least a dozen times as it poured continuously for fourteen straight hours.
(This page may contain affiliate links. Read our disclosure about affiliate links.)
Intimate Atmosphere
It rained all the way to the Quince at the Homestead restaurant and the insanely heavy Thursday-night traffic was nearly a white-knuckler. But I would make the trip again in a heartbeat… if it were to enjoy another dinner such as the one Lauren and I experienced last night. But before I get too far ahead of myself, a bit of history is appropriate. Tina Warnke is a Managing Partner of the Homestead Hotel and, according to their website, the hotel is “The North Shore’s Gracious Inn,” where accommodations have “the personal attention and quiet, intimate atmosphere of a small, classic European hotel.”
The Magic is Alive and Well
Ms. Warnke has been part of the Homestead family since 1999; she has seen the likes of Trio and Trio Atelier previously occupy the space within the walls of the Homestead, and graced by some of the best Chicago chefs who have gone on to open their own prestigious restaurants. But – and here is the key – after Trio Atelier closed, Warnke had a vision.
That vision eventually involved current Executive Chef Andy Motto (himself having cooked at some pretty notable restaurants), Sous Chef Josef Dugolenski and Wine Director Scott Quint. Everything Lauren and I experienced tells me that The Magic is alive and well, residing at Quince at the Homestead.
Breath of Fresh Air
(The bar area of Quince at the Homestead) From the outside of the hotel, one could easily imagine it to be a fraternity or sorority house; it is, after all, on the campus of Northwestern University. But what is on the ground level inside is definitely not Greek. The warm and welcoming environment is uniquely cozy and austere at the same time. There is a comfortable bar area that looks more like a living room, with small tables and a fireplace, akin to a library or study, in the eighty-year-old building.
Across the hall is the the main dining room with seating for about forty and a smaller private room with a capacity of about fifteen or so that is perfect for intimate parties or meetings. An interesting breath of fresh air were the not-crammed-together tables and the four-tops that were set instead for two, giving an even roomier feel to the seating arrangement.
(The tables themselves were austerely topped with a double layer of white cloths, an appetizer plate adorned with a rosebud-folded napkin, a water glass and single votive candle. This was pure simplicity and elegance; the details were to follow. It was a Quince martini for Lauren and a Grey Goose on the rocks for me as we tried to decide on two appetizers among only seven choices. Ditto for the entrées.
Appetizers and Entrées
It was not an easy decision to make. The names and descriptions on the menu were deceptively simple. Our waiter provided more details, which only made the choice that much more difficult. We settled on appetizers of Lobster – Yukon Gold blini, caviar, herb cake, crab and Spicy Lamb Ravioli – Serrano ham, olive, basil, lavender, asparagus. Entrées consisted of Olive Oil Poached Trout – Kennebec potato, cucumber, dill, pickles, lemon, quail egg for Lauren and Duck – savory crepe, wild rice, artichoke, autumn fruit, cherry for me.
Written that way (with little flair), one could almost be persuaded that the menu was actually boring… But oh, one would be so incredibly wrong! One could, with little imagination, see the influence of Chef Motto’s previous mentors and restaurants. Eye-catching plating is one thing. But what was nearly impossible to imagine was where in the world did the Chef ever come up with the ideas for his creations?! I can only conclude that Motto is predominantly right-brained, focusing on aesthetics, artistry, feeling and creativity.
All the Right Flavors
As an example, read again the above-described Spicy Lamb Ravioli. (keep in mind that my description will be a less-then-feeble attempt to share the intricacies of a dish so filled with flavor that my taste buds didn’t quite know what to do.) The tasty confit of lamb was tucked inside a large and very crispy (deep-fried?) ravioli, surrounded by a Serrano ham broth that was added last-second at the table. There was also a trio of baby asparagus spears embraced by a sash of salty and crispy prosciutto, while floating atop the ambrosia was a gentle cloud of lavender foam. I never would have even imagined lavender, basil, lamb, and Serrano ham on the same plate, let alone tasting so incredibly good. The same was true of all the other items we ordered.
Southeast Asian Influence
While I don’t think I will attempt to describe the other items, I will tell you that I don’t believe I have ever tasted so many different, distinct flavors in one sitting. From appetizer to dessert, there was a constant flow of fresh herbs and spices (many coming right from a roof-top garden at the Homestead) that on first blush sounded almost incompatible… yet the flavors and texture flowed from the chef’s hands like paint from the brush of Vincent Van Gogh in a moment of of feverish inspiration. In the case of Chef Motto, the inspiration was a Southeast Asian influence on what might be referred to as Contemporary American cuisine.
Whatever it’s called, it should be labeled as pure and simple genius. Consider the “lemon” listed as an ingredient for Lauren’s Trout: paper-thin slices of fresh lemon that were dusted in flour and momentarily flash fried. The intensity of the resulting lemon flavor was enough to titillate taste buds for several minutes. The quail egg in the entrée was gently poached atop/inside a homemade dilled cucumber. And the tartness of apple cider vinegar was a perfect accompaniment for the sweeter dilled sauce just beneath the fish.
Fresh herbs were everywhere, laced throughout the meal like a fine piece of antique embroidery. And who might imagine savory foam on a plate with a puree of beet and carrot (the “autumn fruit in the Duck description), tiny tart cherries and a confit of duck tucked neatly inside of a small crepe next to slices of a perfectly-cooked duck breast? Answer: Chef Andy Motto.
Such Ease and Confidence
A bit of Internet search revealed that, in arriving at Quince, Motto had actually answered a Craig’s List ad. This was after several previous gigs that left Motto contemplating his future. My guess would be that his future may be best described by a few lines from a song by Chicago band STYX:
“You’ve got it all in the palm of your hand…
And you’re fooling yourself if you don’t believe it.
… your future looks quite bright to me“
Rarely have I experienced such a delightful dinner; one that was perfectly cooked, tenderly and marvelously spiced and served in such a relaxed atmosphere with such ease and confidence. Stay right there at Quince Chef Motto. The crowds are waiting in the wings to see what you can do. Quince at the Homestead is fine dining at its best. I give Quince a Rare Five Zins and urge you to make a reservation at your earliest possible convenience.
Your Table is Waiting…
Ralph Pancetta
I dined as a guest of the restaurant.
Quince was located in the Homestead Hotel at 1625 Hinman Ave in Evanston, IL. Quince is now closed and the hotel is now the Graduate by Hilton Evanston.
