For some reason, this is a restaurant that will always have a place in my heart…no matter what. And no, that’s not a segue to some bad news about 302 West. I have enjoyed some very special moments and occasions there, and I remember how saddened I was with the passing of 302’s Joel Findlay – a chef I considered as one of the greats who could easily stand shoulder to shoulder alongside my mentor, Joseph Insalago. Curious I was, as to the ability of someone else to be able to walk in Joel’s footsteps and maintain the quality and imagination that had brought 302 West such acclaim.
302 West – Geneva’s Flagship of Fine Dining
I am very happy to report that Chef Jeremy Lycan seems to have taken the reins with strong hands and – at least for the time being – Geneva’s flagship of fine dining has continued to sail proudly on a straight and narrow course. Before I continue, I need to mention that I am certain there would be no way for this good news to exist were it not for Joel’s wife and partner Katherine who, without a doubt, has taken on a Herculean task in maintaining the reputation of 302 West.
The untimely loss of a partner and soul mate is one thing. The loss of an innovative and talented chef at the same time is quite another. Katherine has found the strength to continue at 302. She has found someone (perhaps he was training with Joel or was a sous-chef to him) to take care of business in the kitchen while she continues to run the business and to write – I assume – the marvelous descriptions for the menu items.
Imaginative Flair of a Presentation
While back in town recently, it was my pleasure to drop in for a cocktail and a light snack. I did this in part for no real reason and in part because I was curious to see what changes, if any, had taken place. I certainly had no intention of writing a review. Lauren was with me and we decided to sit in the dining room, which by the way was fairly empty. We ordered a Grey Goose on the rocks while we perused the menu. Then, we sampled the “Spicy Shredded Duckling Nachos on whipped cilantro-goat cheese with crisp sweet potato and plantain chips for dipping” ($8.50), and the “In-house Hickory Smoked Sturgeon Fillet on a tuft of fresh mache atop a lacey potato crisp drizzled with sour cream-chive sauce and fresh chives” ($7.50) appetizers.
We also decided to split a Crisp Pecan Crusted Walleye Fillet on rich and creamy butternut squash sauce anointed with dried cherry essence ($28.50). This we did only because they were out of the Yellowfin Tuna Crusted with Pepper, seared and roasted, on double cream mashed potatoes with bright green onion butter sauce ($30).
Although the entrees at 302 are now close to some of the most expensive in the neighborhood, for some reason I have never objected to them… for several reasons. The most important of these is that the food is always sensational eye candy that is served with an imaginative flair of a presentation. The flavors? Nothing short of fantastic. And not once have I ever been charged a plate-splitting fee. This evening was no different. The Duckling Nachos were superb, the Sturgeon superlative and the Walleye… to die for.
302 was “On the Market”
I am reminded that my last review of 302 was in June of 2001. In the interim I have received only a very few negative emails about the quality of the 302 experience, but on every occasion on which I have personally stopped by, rarely was there ever even the smallest of things that I might have seen as detracting from the highest of ratings. I had heard recently that 302 was “on the market”.
This was distressing to say the least. If it is in fact for sale, I cannot now contemplate the loss – to me, not to mention the Fox Valley. I am sincerely hoping that Katherine wishes to carry on the tradition of excellence that she and Joel started. I am sure of one thing however. Joel is certainly looking down from the greatest of all kitchens above and smiling. He is smiling because his and Katherine’s wonderful restaurant is still running like a finely tuned Swiss watch.
Your Table is Waiting…
Ralph Pancetta
Special Note: This particular review has continued to receive many page views, so I have left it up. As you probably know, 302 West has been sold and is under new ownership. It reopened sometime in May of 2006 under the name Tuscana – Incredibly Italian and is owned by Jim Ginger – the same owner of Rain restaurant in Geneva). Less than a year later, Tuscana has closed its doors as well — for what reason we may never know. But what a sad addendum to a landmark location… Review posted 01/11/06 – Rating: 5 zins
