Let me share a fun place with you. It’s in Chicago. You’ll enjoy some of the best Italian cuisine available in Chicago, and you’ll have fun while you’re there. It’s a restaurant called Trattoria Isabella…
Always On the Lookout for Great Dining Venues
Being able to jump on a plane and head to a distant location for fun, relaxation and discovery of new and sumptuous dining is great fun… But this year, “staycations” have replaced many of those expensive soirées, for obvious reasons. And ever since our European vacation plans ended up in the biffy – compliments of the Great Wall Street Tailspin of 2008 – Lauren and I have been on the lookout for dining venues that would at least allow for a sort of “potatoes and point” experience. You know, the ones where we might be able to at least pretend we were in a foreign land because of the food and atmosphere. Last night, we got very close to that goal. From the Trattoria Isabella website:
“From the moment you step through the door of Trattoria Isabella, you take in the best of Italian dining within a warm, romantic, contemporary setting. The airy restaurant features floor to ceiling windows that allow natural light to flood the space. And when the weather is nice we have a palatial patio with it’s own bar…”
There was also a touch of rustic that added to the contemporary aspect of the description – almost bistro-like — and we felt very comfortable in the restaurant. Dark wood chairs with upholstered seats and dark wood tables topped with white paper over white table cloths, coupled with the warm glow of ambient lighting, brought a soothing serenity to the dining room. Melodic strains of some 1940s favorites from greats like Sinatra and Martin just made things all the more inviting.
A True Craftsman
We were greeted by GM and Maître d’ Paolo Capobianco. He was smiling and gracious, his thick Italian accent lending not only authenticity but a genuine and sincere feeling that we were actually about to dine in his own home. And throughout the evening, Mr. Capobianco moved casually among diners – stopping to insure that all was well – while also checking things out on the patio outside. With its propane-fired heaters (like those in California), the large patio is a marvelous addition to the restaurant and comfortable in a wide range of temperatures. Frequented by throngs of folks on a daily basis for lunch, dinner, late-night snacks or just for cocktails and conversation, It is a perfect venue for the casual diner.
Our waiter for the evening was to be Edward. Seeming to slowly warm to us much in the same manner as our waiter at Tramontos, Edward quickly proved what I have known for a long time. To be really good at anything, one must enjoy thoroughly the work one is doing. In everything from presence at our table to menu item descriptions and to general knowledge of wine and food, it was clear that Edward not only knew his stuff, he was a true craftsman who enjoyed his chosen vocation. Interestingly, our banter throughout the evening led to the discovery that we had both worked in restaurants in the same area of Los Angeles. the only difference being that he arrived just less than a year after I left…
Generations-Old Family Recipes
The extensive menu at Trattoria Isabella – created by Executive Chef Michael Serratore and incorporating generations-old family recipes – includes an incredible variety of salads, antipasti and appetizers, as well as pasta (of course!), risotto, chicken, veal, fish and steak. Classic pizzas, cooked in a gorgeous, wood-fired, brick oven imported from Italy, are also available. It was nearly impossible for me to decide even where to start…
Thankfully, Edward was there to assist, informing us that he could make small changes, if we would prefer, to menu items that might better match our desires. We therefore started our repast with the marriage of an evening special Calamari Salad with Octopus (I had asked which was better – calamari or octopus and Edward had them combined for us in a single salad). The calamari was poached and the octopus was marinated in balsamic reduction sauce and then grilled. Cooked to perfection, the mollusks were tender and exquisite. The tasty sauce was, at once, both sweet and acidic.
Entrée Selections
Entrée selections were a bit more difficult. My ancestry didn’t help. And always knowing that more excellent food would keep coming to the table made it difficult to ever stop eating. This menu was reminiscent of the “old days”. We finally narrowed it down to about four choices – not an easy task – but decided to order two that we expected we could easily share. Lauren selected Mahi, an evening special. Sautéed and surrounded by a tart lemon sauce with sun-dried tomatoes and artichoke bottoms, the mahi was perfectly cooked, flaky, tender and long on flavor; it was superb. The Veal Isabella on the menu sounded much like the Veal Saltimbocca that had once been my favorite, prepared by Executive Chef Joseph Insalago at the Abbey Restaurant in Marina Del Rey so many years ago.
No one to this day has been able to duplicate it at any restaurant. I couldn’t resist. This version was described as being prepared with prosciutto, sage, eggplant and fontina cheese. It was definitely a tad different, but certainly every bit as good as that prepared by my mentor!
Amazing Finish to a Great Italian Dinner
We finished the meal with an indescribable duo of homemade specialties: Tiramisu and Cannoli. Floating just above a waffled pattern of dark chocolate sauce, the pair was light and heavenly. Certainly there were no calories here! Lauren is without question the dessert aficionado when it comes to both of these delights and she unhesitatingly announced that they were both some of the best she had ever had. Even without the maven status, I have sampled enough of these particular treats and wholehearted agreement was easy! The cannoli, an essential part of Sicilian cuisine, is an amazing finish to a great Italian dinner… if made properly. This one was.
The crust was thick and crisp, surrounding a ricotta filling that had hints of cinnamon and almond. The ends were dipped in freshly chopped pistachios. Mmmmmmmmmmm! I also indulged in a cup of cappuccino. This was something I have enjoyed only one other time since leaving the California restaurant business behind so many years ago. It was the grand finale for a perfect evening.
Perfect Alternative to a Staycation
A final thank you and goodbye to Mr. Capobianco and we headed back to the train station for the trip home to the ‘burbs. The walk felt good in the balmy September Chicago air. A smallish Italian restaurant of 80 seats (although there is the 100-seat outdoor patio with its own full bar) turned out to be the perfect alternative to a staycation, and perhaps the next best thing to a European trip. With a gracious host, a smiling and professional waiter, quiet and inviting ambience and excellent cuisine, one couldn’t ask for much more in the way of memorable dining. I give Trattoria Isabella Four Zins. Vi ringrazio per una grande serata!
Your Table is Waiting…
Ralph Pancetta
Trattoria Isabella was located at 217 N Jefferson St in Chicago. This restaurant is now permanently closed.
