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Glen Prairie Fine Food & Drink

November 7, 2008

At the Crowne Plaza Lombard/Downers Grove Hotel resides a restaurant worthy of your attention. It is the Glen Prairie Fine Food and Drink. The look? definitely contemporary. But there is also a very subtle feel of the prairie style that Frank Lloyd Wright would have liked.

Upscale and Intimate

In an austere yet still comfortable setting, dark wood tables are set either with comfortable upholstered chairs or wooden chairs. There are also booths along one wall. Table tops are austere too, with only cloth-wrapped silverware, a small oil candle and salt & pepper shakers.

A long and very attractive marble-topped bar covers most of the west wall. Except for hanging lights above the bar and one high bar table, ceiling lighting was recessed, demure and hardly noticeable. And there is also a separate dining room that can accommodate overflow crowds or private parties.

Local Farm-Sourced Fine Dining

But perhaps one of the most impressive features of Glen Prairie comes in part from its own description: “With the intent to respect the environment and promote environmentally sustainable practices, Glen Prairie Fine Food & Drink is a local farm-sourced fine dining restaurant with contemporary American cuisine. Even the takeout containers are compostable and made from sugarcane rather than petroleum based plastics.”

Clearly, the restaurant’s philosophy is in tune with that of the hotel in which it is found (The socially responsible, 148,000 square-foot Crowne Plaza features a guest recycling program, low-emissivity windows to reduce energy loss, and has extensively used recycled materials in its renovation).

A look at the Lunch Menu

fireplace with seatingShortly after we checked in, Lauren and I stopped by for a glass of wine and an appetizer, and to take some pictures in the late-afternoon sun. Traffic outside on Route 38 was frenetically flying past, yet we heard nothing; someone did a tremendous sound-proofing job!

While we were staring blankly out the windows at the late autumn sky, happily acknowledging the fact that we were safe from all traffic concerns, we took a look at the lunch menu and its savory appetizers. The Farm Fresh Garlic Cream Cheese-Stuffed Mushrooms, with horseradish potato puree called out and we decided to go for it. The ‘shrooms were delightful and the sauce was light but with a hint of heat, a perfect compliment to a windy and cool afternoon.

Sourcing Fresh Ingredients

After a refreshing swim in the pool and some time in the exercise room, our appetites were once again beginning to howl. After showers and a change of clothes, we were ready to head back to Glen Prairie for dinner. Executive Chef Daniel Ovanin has created an excellent menu that is designed to “emphasize seasonal ingredients to showcase a variety of American flavors. The restaurant team shops local farmers’ markets in Glen Ellyn and Lombard, IL, as well as The Farm (stand) in Westchester, IL twice a week to source fresh ingredients.”

spinach salad
Spinach Salad with fresh raspberries – Photo by Lauren Pancetta

One look at that menu told me that I was going to like Glen Prairie. Soups and appetizers included Caramelized Bermuda Onion Soup with herbed crouton, Laack Bros. Swiss and gruyere, Farm Fresh Garlic Cream Cheese Stuffed Mushrooms, with horseradish potato puree, Free Range Colorado Lamb Chop, with port glaze, caramel onions and potato latke, Ditzler Beef Tenderloin, with pearl couscous, crumbled feta and truffle vinaigrette, and Lightly Smoked Whitefish Brandade, with peppato and crostini.

Dinner Selections

Dinner selections included Simply Grilled Coho Salmon, with sweet corn polenta and roasted cherry tomato salad, Lake Superior Whitefish, with warm toasted barley salad and Meyer lemon nage, Grilled Colorado Rack of Lamb, red banana fingerling potatoes, baby vegetables and rosemary jus, Glen Prairie Signature Meatloaf, roasted vegetables, whipped potatoes and button mushroom gravy, Grilled Duroc Pork Porterhouse, stone ground mustard and raspberry glaze, Minnesota wild rice and natural jus, Ditzler Farm Filet Mignon, herb whipped potatoes, sautéed green beans and peppercorn-port jus, and Grilled Dakota Farmed Bison Ribeye, parsnip brown butter whipped potatoes and caramelized baby beets.

beet salad
Roasted Heirloom Beet Salad at Glen Prairie – Photo by Lauren Pancetta
bison ribeye
Bison Ribeye

Lauren and I split the Lightly Smoked Whitefish Brandade. The fish was perfectly smoked and blended into the mashed potatoes: tasty, hot and ample, even for a table of four. Our dinner desires had done an about face this evening, as Lauren had long ago decided that a Bison Ribeye was the perfect entrée. With so many great-sounding choices, a decision was difficult. Normally, I would probably have chosen the Rack of Lamb, but since I have never seen – on any menu, anywhere, (including Wisconsin) –  Northern Pike, I just had to order it. Lauren decided to add a Spinach Salad, with fresh raspberries, goat cheese, almonds and champagne vinaigrette and I coupled the Roasted Heirloom Beet salad, with herbed goat cheese, sunflower seeds, organic greens and champagne vinaigrette with my pike.

Perfect Dinners

Lauren’s Ribeye was cooked exactly as ordered. It was highly marbled and full of flavor, and the accompanying beets and parsnip-potatoes were the perfect match. My pike was crispy on the outside, tender and flaky-white on the inside, done to perfection and just plain excellent; why more restaurants don’t serve it is beyond me. It was served with a side of “mac ‘n’ cheese” – actually penne pasta and cheese – that had a crispy crust of bread crumbs and was loaded with Wisconsin cheddar cheese. Add a glass of organic Bonterra Merlot for Lauren and one of Sauvignon Blanc for me and the perfect dinner is at hand!

northern pike
Northern Pike with Mac ‘n’ Cheese – Photo by Lauren Pancetta

Simple, Elegant, Professional, Incredible

The plate presentations were simple but elegant and our server was professional, attentive, smiling and helpful. Considering the beautifully appointed and comfortable room, quality of food and service and relaxing ambience, we were surprised that the restaurant was not packed. My guess is that, in addition to being a brand new venue, there are still many who think that restaurants in hotels do not have quality food and service. In the case of Glen Prairie Restaurant in the Glen Ellyn Crown Plaza, nothing could be further from the truth.

Restaurant Manager Mark Imburgia and Executive Chef Daniel Ovanin have combined their talents to make Glen Prairie an incredibly great place to have a Four Zin meal at extremely reasonable prices. This is definitely one to put on your list of places to try… at you earliest convenience!

Your Table is Waiting!

Ralph Pancetta

Glen Prairie is located at 1250 Roosevelt Road in Glen Ellyn, IL inside the Crowne Plaza Hotel.

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Ralph Pancetta

Food Critic

In my career are twenty-five-plus years learning the restaurant business – from top to bottom – and six years in a Midwest university learning and polishing my writing skills. I have spent a good number of those years (just how many yet to be determined) on the road and authored well over 150 reviews & articles – and still counting.

I’ve traveled from Maine to Florida, from Boston to San Francisco,  from Seattle to San Diego, and from Dallas to way north of Duluth, sampling and writing about food. And Yes, I love restaurants, I love preparing, writing about, and eating, food. I hope you enjoy reading what I have written!

Ralph Pancetta

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