Underneath a vintage theater marquee that now only announces local events resides an upscale eatery that has been open for just over a year. Occupying a space in the old Fargo building that has, at various times over the years, been home to the Geneva Theater and at least two other pub-style venues, Citizen Kane presents itself as a breath of fresh air.
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Great Starters, Appetizers, Lunch and Dinner Items
With its fairly austere interior of muted khaki-colored walls, oak-topped tables with only salt, pepper and cloth-wrapped napkins, casual ambience is what makes this an immediately inviting place to stop – even if it is only for a beverage and some conversation while seated at a very nice and fully-stocked oak bar. I have visited on several occasions and sampled appetizers, cocktails and the relaxed atmosphere but never the entrees of Chef Richard Fields. But after receiving several e-mails that included positive comments, I decided that it was time for Lauren and me to stop in for an “official” visit.
Located in the heart of the downtown, Citizen Kane prides itself on a menu that includes a great selection of starters, salads, sandwiches and entrées, incorporating always-fresh ingredients. All items seem to have their own unique and Fields-style signature that tends to send one’s taste buds toward the spicier side of the spectrum. Starters include Seared Ahi Tuna on sesame flatbread with wasabi cream and tamari sauce, and Crab Cakes served with blue cheese slaw & tartar sauce (which don’t include in the description the additional zing that accompanies the tasty cakes).
Other examples that exhibit a zesty zeal include a lunch selection of Grilled Jerk Chicken Sandwich – a marinated 6 oz. chicken breast with roasted red peppers, lettuce, tomatoes and basil aioli and a dinner entrée of Creole Meatloaf with Andouille Sausage with Creole spices, onions & peppers with a jalapeno brown sauce. The menu isn’t all heat; numerous other selections exist that will tingle and tantalize your taste buds with milder herbs and spices while palpitating your palate.
Which Entrée to Choose…
I sipped on a Grey Goose as we browsed the menu, trying to determine where our hunger would lead us. Lauren decided to try one of the evening’s specials: Vegetable Lasagna, accompanied by a beet salad and a glass of tart and crisp Viognier. My decision was difficult because I was torn between meat and fish. The Creole Meatloaf was really tempting (and quite good, I have been told), as was the Citizen Kane Pub Steak – sliced hanger steak marinated in dark beer, soy sauce and herbs, served with caramelized onions in a wild mushroom brown sauce… and the Grilled Halibut Steak – an 8 oz. filet seasoned with olive oil, rosemary, lemon & white wine, topped with lemon butter sauce. Even the half-pound Citizen Kane Burger would have done the trick. In the end however, it was the Grilled Halibut that won out for me.
The Results
Lauren’s salad was fresh and delightful: tender leaf lettuce varieties topped with pecans and beet slices, intermingled with bits of goat cheese and drizzled with a bright vinaigrette dressing. The lasagna was loaded with vegetables and surrounded by a dark red and herb-infused marinara in which an abundance of caraway seeds tended to overpower the veggies and steal the show. My halibut was done perfectly, had a marvelous and mild flavor and was accompanied by freshly sautéed vegetables and crispy sweet potato fries – some of the best I have had.
Even though Lauren didn’t quite finish her meal, I judged the portion sizes to be just right. The plates were heated, the plating and presentations were nicely done, and the prices were reasonable. Service at Citizen Kane has always been quite good. Our server on this particular occasion seemed new – needing to occasionally consult her notes – but this did not detract from the meal or the experience.
Acoustics Were the Only Distraction & Real Concern
My only real concern is the acoustics in Citizen Kane. High ceilings, coupled with a hard floor and walls, create a sort of sound box effect that tends to accentuate and reinforce any sound – be it conversation, clanging of plates or any other sort of noise. When the restaurant is even half full, the noise level of the diners is amplified to an almost uncomfortable level. I am hopeful that an inexpensive piece or two of sound-deadening material can be added to the ceiling at some point to ameliorate a problem that only gets exacerbated by the occasional entertainment there.
A Really Fine Job
In all, I think that the owners of Citizen Kane have done a really fine job in putting together their vision. All the right pieces are in place, and from what I can tell, things are getting better all the time. An imaginative chef creating freshly-prepared and well-plated meals, good service and acceptable price points will always go a long way toward attracting and maintaining a loyal and growing group of patrons. I give Citizen Kane Three-and-a-Half Zins. If you haven’t been there yet… you should definitely make a plan to go!
Your Table is Waiting…
Ralph Pancetta
Note: Citizen Kane moved from its location in the old Geneva Theater to the the digs formerly occupied by Isabella Estiatorio (just across the street from Citizen Kane) not long after Isabella’s closed. The Head Chef there, Sean Eastwood, had, shortly before that time, departed for the warmer climes of first San Diego and now Mountain View, CA. Not long thereafter, Citizen Kane also closed its doors. The owners of Urban Grille (west State Street in Geneva) then opened up a new, high-end venue there called Enye, which quickly failed due to lack of support from diners. The same owners renamed and reopened the doors to what is now called Table 38. My, but restaurants come and go so quickly around here…
