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Karma Restaurant Review
 
Restaurant Information Rating View Rating Key
Karma
510 E. Rte. 83
Mundelein, IL 60060
(847) 970-6900
 


Review posted 03/07/06

Sometimes, the best thing to do for someone is to just plain old spoil them.  And since Lauren's birthday was coming up, I had been looking for a special place to which we had not yet journeyed so that the element of surprise was on my side.  Several recent emails regarding a venue in Mundelein indicated that things were coming together and that it just might fill the bill.  When I consulted a map and saw that Mundelein was a ways north of me, I decided it best find a place to stay overnight as well.  I found that this particular restaurant was located in a hotel - the DoubleTree - and... the plan was hatched!

Part of Lauren's forte is her knowledge of places to stay, so I knew that the element of surprise was about as safe as a 9th inning Cubs lead.  And when we turned the corner and she spotted the DoubleTree, I noticed a large grin and I knew that she was on to me.  No matter... the fun had only just begun.  although I had not realized it, the Hotel was decorated in sort of a Frank Lloyd Wright style (Wright is one of Lauren's passions) and the rugs, lamps and huge fireplace just inside the lobby entrance turned the grin into an ear-to-ear smile.

Our room had a king bed and a Wright-style desk along with a giant arm chair in the same style; on the bed was a small bag of "goodies" that included lavender spray for the pillow, a sleep mask and earplugs.  There was also a CD sleep disk that could help one to relax... as if it would be needed tonight!  Lauren's next surprise was a knock on the door, followed by a large tray that included two glasses of red wine, raspberries, crackers and several different kinds of cheeses - including Bleu (our favorite) delivered to the door.  We sampled everything and then took a quick tour of the Hotel.

After a short workout in the fitness center and a swim in a large indoor pool, we showered and dressed for dinner - the final piece in the birthday surprise puzzle.  Dinner was to be at the highly acclaimed Karma, described as "Pan-Asian" cuisine and "one of the most sought after destinations of the North Shore."  The menu alone was a palate-teasing experience that encompassed an eclectic mix of Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai and Indian flavors. We sipped Saki while we anticipated being seated.

The Karma lounge, in fact the entire restaurant, was an interesting study in austerity that managed to somehow also feel warm and comfortable - despite the high ceilings and cavernous size.  Small cocktail table tops in the lounge glowed with an eerie green Kryptonite glow... or was it a wasabi glow?  In any case, the same glow oozed from the tall, hand-blown glass bamboo shoots surrounding the Hostess desk.  Inside, one's attention was immediately drawn to the huge reflecting pool in the middle of the restaurant - an artists concept perhaps of a rice paddy.  About a third of the far wall was composed of water slithering down across square black porcelain tiles.  The black tables were empty save black cloth napkin-wrapped silverware, pairs of black chopsticks and a thin glass vase with a bamboo shoot growing in it.

Dinner started with a complimentary bowl of edamame sprinkled with spicy orange seasoning flakes, and an additional Saki.  The menu supplied some of the most difficult dinner choices that I have ever attempted to make. The appetizer list included items like Wild Mushroom Pot Stickers with Ponzu Sauce ($7.50) and Togarashi Spiced Fried Calamari with lemon and Asian Dipping Sauce ($9), both of which sounded really tempting.  We finally decided to share the Sashimi Ahi Tuna with Soba Noodle Salad and Wasabi Aioli ($8.50) and the Firecracker Spring Rolls with Peanut Chicken & Mustard Honey Sauce - also spicy - ($7).  The Spring Rolls were a vegetable mix and were an excellent choice - just the right amount of fire - and the deep purple color of the tuna indicated an excellent grade of the delicacy - it literally melted in our mouths.

Dinner choices were also, as stated, difficult... but actually fun to make.  Lauren selected the Tempura Whole Stripped Bass resting on Fermented Black Bean Sauce ($18).  I was so enamored of the tuna appetizer that I decided to have more tuna; I chose the Grilled Big Eye Tuna with Okinawa Sweet Potato Puree, Coconut Braised Spinach and Green Peppercorn Sauce ($23).  We also had a Karma Caesar Salad with Tomato Confit, Avocado and Spicy Caesar Dressing - emphasis on spicy! - ($5.50) and a side dish of Duck Fried Rice ($6)

The dinners were beautifully plated, provided an amazing wealth of flavors and were more than ample in size.  Lauren's fillets were removed from the carcass, but both carcass and fillets were dipped in tempura and fried and served alongside one another, providing an interesting look on the plate.  The batter was light and crispy; the dish had a spicy sauce and was accompanied by the same sort of tasty Asian slaw that came with our Firecracker Spring Rolls.  A separate cup of dipping sauce might have been a nice addition to the entree.  My tuna was perfectly cooked and the strange combination of flavors (like the coconut-braised spinach) was a wonderful change of pace.  I especially like the sweet potato puree.

The manager stopped by and asked if he could get us to preview a new dessert that the chef had developed but not yet placed on the menu.  We were stuffed but also curious, so we caved and the Chocolate Obsession soon graced our table.  Two mounds of flourless chocolate cake with fudge centers and topped with chocolate ice, surrounded by raspberries, raspberry sauce and four chocolate truffles dared us to try to keep from succumbing to a diabetic coma.  Definitely add it to the menu!  Thank heavens we had to navigate only as far as our room... I was so full that I could hardly walk.

In closing I will have to admit that I had read a review prior to our evening and the critic awarded only two of his maximum 4 stars to Karma.  I realize that while I thought we had similar tastes, I knew we had to have different opinions about the same venues... just not this different.  Although I would have preferred hot plates beneath my dinner, far less pepper on my Caesar Salad and perhaps a bit more imagination/creativity with the vast array of Asian ingredients available, I was thoroughly impressed with the food, service, ambiance and the overall feel of Karma.  I do think that they were not quite prepared for the number of diners that night - a lone server at one point was taking care of 12 tables, and doing a tremendous job of it... I never thought that our service suffered as a result.  Well done to the staff at Karma, and hats off to one of the calmest waiters I have seen under such pressure.  I give Karma Four Zins and strongly urge you to treat yourself to this opportunity at your earliest possible convenience!   

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Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com

 

 

 

 


 

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