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D.O.C. Wine Bar Restaurant Review

 
Restaurant Information Rating View Rating Key
D.O.C. Wine Bar
326 Yorktown Center
Lombard, IL 60148
(630) 627-6666 


Review posted 2/13/08

Last week's thicker-than-pea-soup fog may have thwarted my first attempt to visit D.O.C. Wine Bar, but I was determined that a second shot of Chicago-style winter weather would not deter me again.  So a reservation was secured, and even as the snow continued to fall and slow traffic on Route 56 to a crawl, Lauren and I trundled over to the newest portion of Yorktown Center for a delightful evening of excellent food and wine.

D.O.C. -- short for Denominazione di origine controllata -- is an official certification of quality for wines and other food products in Italy. "We at D.O.C. Wine Bar & Bistro have embraced this Italian meaning, incorporating the food, wine and hospitality of Italy into Lombard’s first wine bar. The menu offers a wide array of Italian influenced dishes and a large collection of delicious wines."  ... And they are right on the mark there!

Escorted past a beautiful and shiny black composite bar-top and a dizzying display of wines -- including two floor-to-ceiling towers of racked reds, one at either end of the bar -- Lauren and I were seated at a table next to the window where we could watch the snow as it whirled about through the trees outside lighted with mini-Italian lights.  Inside, we were warm and cozy, bathed in yellow-orange light falling off the dark wood of the walls.  The table was austerely set with only a salt and pepper shaker, a lit candle, and knife and fork neatly wrapped in a white cloth napkin.  Our waiter Will appeared and asked if we would care for a glass of wine. I opted for a Grey Goose on the rocks but Lauren followed Will's suggestion of a Champalou Vouvray.  The wine had an almost musty nose reminiscent of perhaps overripe summer melon, a slightly sweet palate and a finish that was long and agreeable; the wine was perfect for the appetizers we selected: Wild Mushroom Risotto Fritters with Reggiano Crema and Blackened Ahi Tuna with Wakami Ponzu SauceDuck Confit Turnovers with Cherry Merlot Jam and Oven Roasted Calamari with White Beans, Olives and Spicy Tomato Sauce also garnered significant attention on this chilly evening... I'll just have to return to try them on another occasion!

The Fritters were absolutely outstanding; with an intensely crisp outside and silky-smooth rice and mushroom mix on the inside, I could have eaten these all night.  The flavors were rich and satisfying and the sauce was light and tasty.  The Ahi was just barely seared on the outside, and the dense and almost purple flesh was some of the best I have had.  Both were excellent starters and paired well with the Vouvray.  Lauren didn't care for the texture of the Wakami Slaw... I on the other hand loved it, and the Ponzu sauce was bright and tart with a hint of sesame.   

Entree selections were no easy choice either: Maryland Crab Cakes with Creole Dipping Sauce and French Fries, Pan-Seared Salmon with Sauteed Spinach & Lemon Basil Sauce and Cabernet Braised Short Ribs with Mashed Potatoes and Horseradish Gremolota all called out loudly: "Select me!!"  But the winner was Seared Fillet Mignon with Sauteed Spinach and EVOO Mash (Extra Virgin Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes).  Lauren chose the Rigatoni with Sausage, Peas and Tomato Cream Sauce.  There is also a plethora of wonderful cheeses, cured meats and bruschettas on what is referred to as The Butcher's Plate.

The fillet had been roasted and pan-seared in duck fat, and then topped with Worcestershire butter.  It was... well, simply one of the finest pieces of beef that I have ever had -- especially in a restaurant.  It was cooked to order perfectly and I could have cut it with a butter knife.  I normally don't order steaks when I dine out but had I missed this one, I would have been kicking myself for a long time.  The EVOO Mash was really good; the spinach fresh, green and steaming hot... albeit a bit heavy-handed on the garlic.  Paired with a Klinker-Brick old-vine Zinfandel that was bold and intense, spicy and big on dark fruit and black pepper, this was an incredible meal!  Lauren's Rigatoni was excellent as well.  The light and piquant tomato sauce embraced the al-dente pasta like an old friend while the bright green peas and spicy chunks of Italian sausage were well-woven into the mix, supplying the just-right flavor to the dish that was topped with aged parmesan (Italy would definitely be proud).  Will had suggested a Lyeth Meritage to pair with the pasta; light and mellow with a touch of fruit, it turned out to be a perfect match.

It is a rare evening indeed when dessert is chosen at our table, but we wanted one anyway.  At D.O.C. there are only three items on the dessert list: S'mores Panini, Cheesecake Fritters -- both of which sounded wonderful -- and our choice, the Lincoln Park Warm Chocolate Chip Cookie with Vanilla Ice Cream and Rum Caramel.  It sounded like a small and perfect finale for the evening.  It wasn't exactly small... but it was the absolutely perfect finish.  Freshly baked and served in a small and very hot iron skillet, the cookie was perhaps six inches in diameter and oozing molten chocolate chips that were drizzled in caramel; a large scoop of ice cream graced the top of the creation.  Accompanied by a small glass of Michele Chiarlo Moscato D'Asti, the exclamation point had been firmly set for the evening's experience.

What I am really happy about is the fact that the owners of this D.O.C. (they also have one in Chicago -- 2602 N. Clark St. in Lincolnwood) chose to iterate a version out here, west of the city and their other restaurants (they own Smoke Daddy, Dunlays on Clark and Frasca Pizzeria & Wine Bar).  The Lombard location has been open just a few months, but it is definitely going to do very well.  I like the chic, warm feel and easy ambience of the place.  Chef Derek Rettel has created a menu that is very imaginative; his plating is austere, yet stylish and inviting.  If the rest of the wait staff is as professional and knowledgeable as Will -- and I suspect they are -- D.O.C. has all of their proverbial ducks in a very straight line.  I give D.O.C. Wine Bar a solid Four Zins and highly recommend you pay a visit... soon! 

Your Table is Waiting...


Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com

 

 

 

 

 


 

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