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Nosh Restaurant Review
When I get several e-mails regarding a particular restaurant -- especially when
inquiring as to whether or not I have tried it -- I always try to push that
particular venue towards the top of my places-to-try list. Such was the
case after receiving a number of e-mails asking me what I thought about Nosh
in Geneva. What could I say, other than the fact that I had not yet
visited, but planned to... which I had. And so I went.
Nosh occupies a building that some might say is out of the way -- I would disagree. I think it is
quite accessible and easy to find. The venue is located just around
the corner from the Post Office in Geneva, east of Third Street on
the north side of James in an old industrial shop. The building was
actually once a garage (for working on cars) if my memory serves me
correctly. The inside brick and beam structure has been well
preserved, cleaned and redone; the ductwork adding to the simple and
nouveau-urban feel. The mauve-green colored tables are austere,
topped only by salt and pepper shakers, napkin-wrapped silverware, a
dish of jams/jellies and a cup of colored pencils. A large carafe
of ice-water and glasses of ice water are brought when diners are
seated at their tables in the brightly illuminated dining room,
light streaming from the large and arched windows on the south
side. The north wall is painted a deep and vibrant reddish-pink and
adorned with a huge iron clock, complimenting the eclectic and
Latin-influenced menu descriptions.
Upon entering Nosh, one is greeted by a curving counter top and swiveling bar stools, reminiscent of the era of the
diner. We were seated at a table against the north wall, and almost
immediately approached by our waiter, nicely dressed and polite, asking if
we would like a cocktail. This is a sort of unique offering for a
breakfast/lunch establishment -- the possibility of a cocktail that is. And
while many might say that alcohol in the morning is uncalled for, the
occasional celebratory Mimosa or Bloody Mary is a nice added touch to a
special meal. Lauren decided to try a Purple Haze (a concoction
consisting of vodka and pomegranate juice) while I selected a zesty
eye-opener with tequila, mango juice and a splash of grenadine (I forgot the
name...). It took us a while to sift through the unique menu descriptions;
they were well-described and all of them called out: "Taste me!"
On this trip - our second - we chose the Brunch Burrito (scrambled eggs, vegetarian beans, avocado cream
cheese and chipotle vinaigrette, served with choice of house potatoes --
$7.99 or add avocado, chorizo or bacon for $8.99) and the Migas de pan
Caliente de Puerco (a Spanish breakfast skillet with three eggs and
house-made croutons with bacon, Spanish chorizo, prosciutto, garlic,
caramelized onions and drizzled balsamic reduction -- $7.99).
Fun, unique, hip, urban, trendy, original and perhaps even kitschy (in a very positive sense) easily
describe Nosh, the restaurant that has taken its name from a scene
in a Seinfeld episode. (The Yiddish nashn, from Middle High German
"naschen" means "to eat on the sly"... Nosh also means "to eat a light
snack"). The prices at Nosh are reasonable and the menu is full of
great entrees -- lots of egg offerings, French toast, pancakes,
sandwiches and salads -- for both breakfast and lunch, with the
added availability to serve alcohol giving the unique venue a leg-up
on the other breakfast locations in the area.
My over-vinegared 'de puerco (although the reduction was drizzled around the plate, the entire entree tasted like
vinegar... was it supposed to?) was not quite like the mental picture
created by the menu description and I thought it would come in a skillet; it
came as sort of an unmolded cylinder, contained an overabundance of croutons
and was not very hot when it was served. Lauren's breakfast was also not
hot; the burrito was served without sauce and was a bit dry. Perhaps I just
made a poor choice or maybe the 'de puerco dish was not one of Nosh's
fortes, although it is listed as a Nosh Signature Dish. I have previously
tried Eggs Benedict and an Omelet and those were OK... Great-tasting House
Potatoes (Yukon Gold and Baby Reds) accompany many of the entrees and can
also be ordered a-la-carte. Another nice touch is the availability of
fresh-squeezed juices.
I have mixed emotions for Nosh. I very much like the feel of the place, the menu selections and descriptions; the
prices are reasonable. Our waiter was dressed appropriately and was very
attentive; other servers wore jeans and t-shirts... As I have said on many
occasions, the devil is in the details, and I would like to see a bit more
attention paid to the details at Nosh -- particularly plating and plate
presentation -- because I believe this new addition to Geneva's list of
restaurants has the potential to blow its competition away. I give it Three
Zins and recommend that you give it a try.

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com
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