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Trattoria Isabella Restaurant Review
There was also a touch of rustic that added to the contemporary aspect of the description -- almost bistro-like -- and we felt very comfortable in the restaurant. Dark wood chairs with upholstered seats and dark wood tables topped with white paper over white table cloths, coupled with the warm glow of ambient lighting, brought a soothing serenity to the dining room. Melodic strains of some 1940s favorites from greats like Sinatra and Martin just made things all the more inviting.
Our waiter for the evening was to be Edward. Seeming to slowly warm to us much in the same manner as our waiter at Tramontos, Edward quickly proved what I have known for a long time: to be really good at anything, one must enjoy thoroughly the work one is doing. In everything from presence at our table to menu item descriptions and to general knowledge of wine and food, it was clear that Edward not only knew his stuff, he was a true craftsman who enjoyed his chosen vocation. Interestingly, our banter throughout the evening led to the discovery that we had both worked in restaurants in the same area of Los Angeles -- the only difference being that he arrived just less than a year after I left... The extensive menu at Trattoria Isabella -- created by Executive Chef Michael Serratore and incorporating generations-old family recipes -- includes an incredible variety of salads, antipasti and appetizers, as well as pasta (of course!), risotto, chicken, veal, fish and steak. Classic pizzas, cooked in a gorgeous, wood-fired, brick oven imported from Italy, are also available. It was nearly impossible for me to decide even where to start... Thankfully, Edward was there to assist, informing us that he could make small changes, if we would prefer, to menu items that might better match our desires. We therefore started our repast with the marriage of an evening special Calamari Salad with Octopus (I had asked which was better -- calamari or octopus and Edward had them combined for us in a single salad). The calamari was poached and the octopus was marinated in balsamic reduction sauce and then grilled. Cooked to perfection, the mollusks were tender and exquisite; the tasty sauce was both sweet and acidic. Entrée selections were a bit more difficult. My ancestry didn't help; always knowing that more excellent food would keep coming to the table made it difficult to ever stop eating. And this menu was reminiscent of the "old days". We finally narrowed it down to about four choices -- not an easy task -- but decided to order two that we expected we could easily share. Lauren selected Mahi, an evening special. Sautéed and surrounded by a tart lemon sauce with sun-dried tomatoes and artichoke bottoms, the mahi was perfectly cooked, flaky, tender and long on flavor; it was superb. The Veal Isabella on the menu sounded much like the Veal Saltimbocca that had once been my favorite, prepared by Executive Chef Joseph Insalago at the Abbey Restaurant in Marina Del Rey so many years ago, and that no one to this day has been able to duplicate at any restaurant. I couldn't resist. This version was described as being prepared with prosciutto, sage, eggplant and fontina cheese; it was definitely a tad different, but certainly every bit as good as that prepared by my mentor!
A final thank you and goodbye to Mr. Capobianco and we headed back to the train station for the trip home; the walk felt good in the balmy September Chicago air. A smallish Italian restaurant of 80 seats (although there is the 100-seat outdoor patio with its own full bar) turned out to be the perfect alternative to a staycation, and perhaps the next best thing to a European trip. With a gracious host, a smiling and professional waiter, quiet and inviting ambience and excellent cuisine, one couldn't ask for much more in the way of memorable dining. I give Trattoria Isabella Four Zins. Vi ringrazio per una grande serata! Your Table is Waiting...
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Being able to jump on a plane and head to a distant
location for fun, relaxation and discovery of new and sumptuous dining is
great fun... But this year, "staycations" have replaced many of those
expensive soirées -- for obvious reasons. And ever since our European
Vacation plans ended up in the biffy -- compliments of the Great Wall Street
Tailspin of 2008 -- Lauren and I have been on the lookout for dining
venues that would at least allow for a sort of "potatoes and point"
experience; you know, the ones where we might be able to at least pretend we
were in a foreign land because of the food and atmosphere. Last night,
we got very close to that goal. From the Trattoria
Isabella website:
We were greeted by GM and Maitre d' Paolo Capobianco;
smiling and gracious, his thick Italian accent lending not only authenticity
but a genuine and sincere feeling that we were actually about to dine in his
own home. And throughout the evening, Mr. Capobianco moved casually
among diners -- stopping to insure that all was well -- while also checking
things out on the patio outside. With its propane-fired heaters, the
large patio is a marvelous addition to the restaurant and comfortable in a
wide range of temperatures. Frequented by throngs of folks on a daily
basis for lunch, dinner, late-night snacks or just for cocktails and
conversation, It is a perfect venue for the casual diner.
We finished the meal with an indescribable duo of homemade
specialties: Tiramisu and Cannoli. Floating just above a waffled
pattern of dark chocolate sauce, the pair was light and heavenly; certainly
there were no calories here! Lauren is without question the dessert
aficionado when it comes to both of these delights and she unhesitatingly
announced that they were both some of the best she had ever had. Even
without the maven status, I have sampled enough of these particular treats
and wholehearted agreement was easy! The cannoli, an essential part of
Sicilian cuisine, is an amazing finish to a great Italian dinner... if made
properly. This one was. The crust was thick and crisp, surrounding a
ricotta filling that had hints of cinnamon and almond; the ends were dipped
in freshly chopped pistachios. Mmmmmmmmmmm! I also indulged in a
cup of cappuccino -- something I have enjoyed only one other time since
leaving the California restaurant business behind so many years ago.
It was the grand finale for a perfect evening.
