Montarra Grill Restaurant Review
Including the one at Route 38 and
Randall Road -- where my journey began -- it is 35 traffic control signals (at least as of this writing,
since Randall Road and its environs is expanding at a rate approximately
equal to that of the known universe) approximately 25 miles, and much
windshield time between here and Montarra Grill, another gleaming example of
what is taking place in strip malls lately. Words like high-end, chic,
upscale and sophisticated are just a sampling of the many applicable
descriptors of this fine-dining venue. Lauren had discovered the place
on one of her many forays into the world of the Internet and, after a brief
discussion, it was decided that we definitely wanted to have dinner there.
It was also convenient to be able to take advantage of the ability to use
Open Table to make our reservations.
Although the host was not, the interior
of the restaurant was inviting. Interestingly but almost austerely
decorated with a black-and-neutral theme, the Montarra Grill came complete
with a waterfall wall and an impressive cobalt chandelier that hung
Medusa-like -- and quite prominently -- from the ceiling in the central
dining area. A separate bar was set away from the dining area, although some
smoke still filtered through. The tables were mostly deuces, and after the
host half-heartedly droned "Enjoy your dinner", we were led to one of them.
I noticed that only every other one of the bare-topped tables had a flower
on them; ours did not. This was actually fortunate, since another couple
was soon seated next to us, and the tall but poorly-weighted flower vase
with all of its water was quickly tipped over onto the gentleman next to
me. How it happened matters not... that would normally have been me, and I
suddenly did not miss a fresh rose on our table.
One of the very first things I noticed
was that the noise level was quite high and the dining room was barely at
50% capacity at that point. The distance between Lauren and me was enough
to enhance the noise and conversation became even more difficult with time.
The menu was a large one: seasonal American cuisine paired with steakhouse
offerings of hand-cut, corn fed, wet-aged prime beef... with an additional
choice of signature crusts and sauces. (One can even order the "Creamy Mac
‘n’ Cheese" add-on for a mere $5...) The Chef -- or a very experienced menu
writer -- did one heck-of-a job on the entree descriptions; they were
well-written, mouth-watering and exciting to say the least! For those who
could survive past the dinner, the dessert menu was just as mind-boggling:
tiramisu, Godiva white chocolate crème brulee and flourless chocolate torte:
sufficient to appease the chocoholic in any of you.
We were overwhelmed at first and chose
to sip a cocktail and order an appetizer as we relaxed. Our server was
pleasant and smiling and certainly allowed us the time that we had
requested. We ordered the Semolina-Crusted, Buttermilk Calamari (fried,
with remoulade, tomato coulis and cracked pepper: $9) and the Bacon-Wrapped,
Diver-Caught Scallops (vanilla bean-maple-pecan compound butter: $11).
Flavors were quite good; the calamari was tender and fried to a not-overdone
state, and the scallops were tender and flavorful as well -- the bacon
complimenting but not overpowering the two large morsels. The sauces were a
tad disappointing; I could taste neither the vanilla nor maple in the butter
and the remoulade was bland.
At this point, the noise had reached an
uncomfortable level and I had begun to wonder just what the architects were
thinking when they considered acoustics for the building. While perhaps
this is the new wave in restaurant design... I prefer the ability to carry
on a conversation without yelling. Besides, we were seated on opposite ends
of the long sides of the rectangular table, and the separation distance made
matters worse. We discussed the options and decided that our evening would
end on a better note if we simply cut bait. We asked for the check and
quickly checked out.
As I look back on the evening, I can
easily say that the food was not exceptional but very good. The bare table
tops were not my idea of a fine-dining experience when one considers the
prices: not outrageous but a tad on the high side when one considers the
rather mundane plate presentations. Steaks were in the $30 and up range
without additional toppings/crusts; entrees were in the $19-$22 range and
dinner for two will easily top $100. The service was very good and it was
nice to see uniformed wait-staff and bus-people. The Montarra website is
elegant and simple and it was the menu that really caught my eye and made me
want to have dinner there -- there were no pictures offered on the site.
The drink prices were reasonable too.
Although I was surprised at the relative
lack of any dress code -- one man was attired in shorts and a baseball cap
-- it was the noise that was simply intolerable and I knew that it would
only get worse had we chosen to stay. If the cacophony that exists in so
many places in today's world doesn't bother you, Montarra just might make
the perfect venue in the growing suburban sprawl of Algonquin. The
seventy-stop-light round trip drive and high noise level didn't help matters
and the ensuing evening was unfortunately a disappointment. I give Montarra
Grill Three-and-a-Half Zins.

Ralph Pancetta
reviews@ralphpancetta.com
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